San Miguel de Allende - Paradise Mexican Style! - Tuesday, August 17, 2010
By Sandi Durell
The historical City in the State of Guanajuato, Mexico, San Miguel de Allende, (www.internetsanmiguel.com/gethere.html ) is a small colorful town sitting in the mountains at an altitude of 6400 feet. The quaint little City of culture was founded in 1542 by a Spanish Franciscan missionary, Fray Juan de San Miguel. It is referred to, by many, as a ‘magical place.’
It was in the 18th Century that the heroes of the independence movement were born. Ignacio de Allende y Unzaga, a revolutionary, born on January 21, 1769, joined forces with Father Don Miguel Hidalgo leading the famous Cry of Independence speech in September 1810 and the resulting insurgency. But Spain was too strong and the patriots were defeated. Both Hidalgo and Allende, along with others, were executed, their heads hung in cages outside a Guanajuato granary. On March 8, 1826, in recognition of Allende’s heroism, the state government changed the name of the town to San Miguel de Allende.
In 1926 SMA was declared a National Monument, preserving the historical aspects of the town which is why the town is free of traffic lights today. With the opening of the Instituto Allende Art School in the late 1930’s, the foreign population began to grow and today retired Americans and Canadians make up much of the expat community, numbering between 2000-4000, depending upon season. I couldn’t wait to experience the magic and spent an extended period of stay during the winter months where the weather is spring-like most of the time.
San Miguel is a physical daily exercise in itself with its hilly cobble-stoned streets, narrow sidewalks and winding side streets. Every turn is a discovery of interesting little shops, boutiques, jewelers and artisans¸ art galleries and restaurants. The streets are very clean as the morning routine for shop-keepers is to sweep and wash the stone pavements. It is rare to see a piece of paper strewn on the streets.
Crossing the street is unique, unlike New York City where I live, as traffic comes to a halt to allow pedestrians the right of way. There are no traffic lights in SMA. All the near traffic misses as automobiles pull up to corners, sometimes with only inches to spare as they turn and move about, does quicken the heartbeat.
Walking down and around the winding streets, one wonders what could be behind some of the large old wooden Hacienda doors and I was afforded the opportunity to find out on several occasions. Each time my surprise was broadened by the spectacular gardens, fountains and beautiful homes within; many with three living levels, high 14 foot ceilings, skylights and roof top gardens. True architectural wonders.
The town is alive with the creativity of artists, writers, theatre people and musicians and includes a large population of Gringo public service groups who work tirelessly to benefit many Mexican charities. The weekly “Bible,” the newspaper Atencion (written in Spanish and English), lists every conceivable activity and happening. One would need an excessive number of hours or a clone in order to participate in everything. The central focus of all cultural activities is the Biblioteca, where concerts, movies, lectures and theatre abound and where the intelligencia usually hang out engaged in serious discussions on all topics.
Depending on one’s lifestyle, choices are innumerable when it comes to accommodations: hotels, B &B’s, apartments, villas, condos, and private homes….all available for rent. To be in the heart of it all, one would probably prefer the area known as “El Centro” where most everything is within walking distance. And if it’s not, then a taxi ride can be had for 25 pesos (a little more than $2.00) to any location within the main city of San Miguel. There’s also a bus available for 5 pesos.
“The Jardin” is the central meeting place in town, around which are many restaurants, stores and local street hawkers. At the Jardin in the Plaza Principal stands the beautiful 18th Century Parroquia (Church), constructed of rose colored quarry stone. The Church bells ring each morning beginning at 6:30 a.m. and if per chance you didn’t hear them, a repeat performance follows at 7:00 a.m.
The Jardin is the place where everyone congregates (especially on weekends) to exchange information about who’s doing what, where, when and with whom, and anything new and happening. It’s also a place to sit, read, make new friends and people watch. It’s Peyton Place Mexican style! On any weekend evening there are three or four different kinds of musical groups playing and singing, people dancing in the streets, lovers holding hands and embracing while swaying to the romantic sounds of the Mariachi bands.
If you crave lots of activities, you can brush up on your Spanish at one of the many Spanish schools; play Bridge at the San Miguel Bridge Club at the Hotel Real d’Minas.( www.hotelesrealdeminas.com.mx/ ) attend gallery art show openings that include cocktails and meeting new friends.
Aside from art classes offered at Bellas Artes (www.experience-san-miguel-de-allende.com/bellas-artes-el-nigromante.html ) and the Instituto de Allende,(www.instituto-allende.edu.mx/ ) many of the galleries hold classes in drawing, painting, sculpture, ceramics, jewelry making. I decided it was time to explore my inner artist (if I had one) and this was my golden opportunity. I signed on for Expressionist Life Drawing. My teacher was artist, Henry Vermillion, who has a gallery in town and is also an actor, director and set designer. The norm in SMA is the wearing of multi-creative hats! Guess what? I discovered I actually had a little talent.
Lest I forget, there are also cooking schools, yoga classes, zumba classes…you name it and it probably is happening in San Miguel. Even Arthur Murray has opened a studio with classes in Latin and Ballroom instruction!
My other activity of choice was tennis, which I’ve played for many years. Lo and behold, there were several tennis facilities available and I wound up at Weber’s red clay tennis courts where I hooked up with some other players and we enjoyed games and each other’s company several times a week. Playing at 6400 ft. above sea level with pressurized tennis balls surely added a new spin to the game, creating interesting challenges.
A plethora of restaurants fill the tiny streets. Aside from the obvious Mexican cuisine, ethnic foods prevail at every turn featuring Italian, Asian, French, American with outdoor dining in magical gardens of flowers, plants and fountains while the sounds of guitar or piano and romantic songs in Espanol and English enhance the flavors. And, needless to say, there’s also a Starbucks.
There’s good jazz and occasionally Doc Severinsen comes to town. There are several hot spots for music and dancing.
As for theatre, three Brits called “The Literary Cabaret”, have been stopping in SMA for the past 16 years offering up their brand of satirical humor of clever skits, poetry and songs featuring anything from Shakespeare to naughty Noel Coward and rock n’ roll.
The Teatro Santa Ana at the Biblioteca serves as a movie hall and also has a full season of theatrical productions with a roster of local talent from the SMA theatre community. St. Paul’s Church is a place for concert music with its ProMusica Series, bringing wonderful classical concerts to San Miguel. There is also opera¸ folk and flamenco.
The Play Readers are part of the theatre scene performing at St. Paul’s Church where rotating directors choose plays that are read on book by a cast of actors, accessorized with some scenery and costuming.
I spent a highlight evening at the Biblioteca watching an award winning documentary “In a Dream.” The story is about Philadelphia mosaic artist Isaiah Zagar and his wife Julia. In the bohemian South Philly neighborhood, 50,000 square feet of concrete have been covered with tile and mirrors, all created by Zagar who shares his torture, torment and unusual lifestyle and family with audiences around the world. Their younger son filmed Isaiah and Julia’s day to day love story, subsequent betrayals, an older son’s drug problems, all captured and documented for the thousands who have viewed this remarkable film. The story can cause great discomfort at times, but that’s what makes great art. Isn’t it? The realities were enhanced when Isaiah and Julia appeared on stage post film showing, submitting themselves to audience questions and participating in a cocktail reception afterwards. It is a not-to-be missed film should one have the opportunity.
Speaking of films, there is a place called The Market Café where, approximately 15 years ago, a Frenchman named Daniel Sirdey cleverly started showing foreign and classic films. It happens in a small room that seats around 22 people who watch the films on a large screen, seated in large comfortable chairs. The price of 60 pesos also included a drink of choice (wine, beer, margaritas) and a bag of popcorn. What a deal!
I had a one time experience attending the small bullring in SMA where a famous Portugese rejoneadore (a bullfighter on horseback) namely, Pablo Hermosa de Mendoza, renowned for his skill, grace, genius and beautiful horses, was appearing. I was told he appears once every 3 years and I knew I had to have the experience. Rejoneo means using a lance and is the oldest form of bullfighting, an activity for the nobility - the Arabs in North Africa and later the Moorish in Spain. Matadors, using capes and swords, became prominent in the early 19th century.
A general admission ticket entitled me to a seat above the first four rows of reserved seats on a concrete slab. As the ring filled and excitement mounted, so did the cigarette and cigar smoke along with the cries of hawkers selling chips and hot sauce, beer, tequila and margaritas. People were jammed together, some on cushions others on the hard concrete. Three ladies sitting nearby shared some tequila, cap by cap, brought in a vitamin bottle passed between then.
Bullfighting is a gory business and not for the faint of heart. The poor bull doesn’t have a chance. But it is traditional pomp and circumstance and part of a cultural harmony. After seeing three animals slaughtered, I’d had enough while the crowd continued to yell “oh lay.”
SMA is the kind of town where total strangers stop and talk on the streets as everyone is anxious to get to know others, especially if you’re a newcomer.
In case you haven’t heard, SMA attracts many ladies from the States seeking beauty ala plastic surgery and such, at a third of the cost or less. There are a few fine surgeons (trained in the best USA hospitals) but do your research and get recommendations.
Don’t miss a visit to the historic Fabrica Aurora, an old cotton mill, (www.fabricalaaurora.com/welcome.html ) on the outskirts of town turned into gallery and studio space, where home furnishings, jewelry and antiques are plentiful. There are multi shops and spaces to visit, along with two delightful cafes when you get hungry.
Day trips and overnights are plentiful. I spent a wonderful day in the City of Guanajuato (it means the mountain place of frogs), a charming European style City and the capital of the State. It is a multi-colored, twisting cobblestoned wonder with a subterranean through which to drive and where visits to the Diego Rivera Museum and the Museum of Mummies can be highly enlightening. It houses the prestigious University of Guanajuato, considered Mexico’s finest school for music and theater. A ride on the finicular to the very top (about 6600 ft.) is a must for 360 degree views of this beautiful and colorful City which, in 1988, was declared a World Heritage Zone by UNESCO.
San Miguel is a favorite with retirees on fixed incomes as it provides a wonderful lifestyle at approximately one-half or less the cost of living in the States. It’s not for everyone as walking and getting around can be challenging to many. Most of the locals speak English which is a plus for those who know little to no Spanish. The bottom line, however, is that if one is active, somewhat rugged with a sense of adventure and loves a cultured, artistic environment….this is the place for you.
Here’s a quote I’ve heard repeated many times: “people go to Florida to die, but they come to San Miguel to live.” And, yes, I’m going back. Hasta luego amigos!
Mexico 200th Anniversary Video Tribute
In celebration of Mexico's 200 Year Anniversary, enjoy this montage highlighting all that makes Mexico a one of a kind and magical destination.
AARP The Magazine Travels the Globe to Reveal the Top 5 Best Places to Retire Abroad
WASHINGTON (July 26, 2010) – Experts in celebrating the next chapter in life, AARP The Magazine traveled the globe to discover the ultimate retirement destinations abroad. Factoring climate, expat community, cost of living, housing, health care, access to the U.S. and culture and leisure, AARP The Magazine reveals the top five locales in its September/October issue (www.aarp.org/magazine), available in homes and online today. See what regions in Mexico, France, Panama, Portugal and Italy have to offer—castles, palm trees, rain forests, grilled lobster—in their unique and unparalleled retirement experiences.
1. MEXICO—Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico is the undisputed number one destination for American retirees. With its rich Indian and Spanish culture, lavish beaches and affordable real-estate, Puerto Vallarta offers the low-cost, laid back lifestyle retirees seek to find in a community.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Winters—sunny, pleasantly warm; summers—rainy, humid hot
* Expat Community: Estimated at 50,000 American retirees
* Access to the U.S.: Excellent
2. FRANCE—Languedoc-Roussillon
Once remote, the Languedoc-Roussillon region is now just three hours from the bright lights and bustling energy of Paris via high-speed train. The area is steeped in history and art. Languedoc-Roussillon is also a destination for the outdoor crowd with picturesque hills and beach along its Mediterranean seashore.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Mediterranean—hot and dry summers; cool winters
* Cost of Living: Not cheap, but a comfortably frugal life can be had for $30,000 a year
* Heath Care: Excellent. French health care has been named the best in the world by the World Health Organization
3. PANAMA—Boquete
Panama is a smart choice for retirees who want it all. Not only does it feature attractive retiree destinations, Panama also offers an unbeatable package of retiree benefits and discounts. Boquete has a unique range of back-home amenities, from a golf course to high-end gated communities.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Expat Community: An estimated several thousand
* Housing Costs: A small house goes for $175,000; in a gated community, $250,000 and up. Rentals: about $600 a month for a two bedroom house
* Culture and Leisure: Rainforest hiking, river rafting, bird watching and coffee plantation tours keep Panama a bustling location for leisure
4. PORTUGAL—Cascais
Many wonder why Portugal has long been overlooked by American retirees. A plentitude of golf, beaches, resorts and trendy café life makes Portugal one of Europe’s most pleasant surprises for retirees.
Some Reasons we love it:
* Cost of Living: A comfortable life can be had on $25,000 a year
* Health Care: Good. Nearby hospitals include the well-regarded British Hospital in Lisbon
* Access to the U.S.: Excellent. Direct flights to-and-from the U.S. fly out of Lisbon
5. ITALY—Le Marche
Le Marche, bordering the Adriatic, is beautiful region with vineyards, snow-capped mountains and beaches a plenty. It also prides itself on the best fish dishes in the country and is trendy enough to have snagged Dustin Hoffman as a tourism spokesperson!
Some Reasons we love it:
* Climate: Mostly sunny
* Expat Community: Relatively few; an international mix
* Culture and Leisure: An incomparable mix of open-air opera festivals, Renaissance painting and architecture, wine tasting and nature reserves
Drug-related violence in cities south of the United States-Mexico border has caused the U.S. State Department to issue a travel warning for Mexico -- but did you know most of Mexico is as safe as ever? Our government is actually advising against visiting very specific places where drug cartels are warring over the billions of dollars made yearly trading illegal substances into the United States, and the efforts by the Mexican government to put an end to the drug traffic. Unfortunately, after hearing "warning" and "Mexico," many Americans perceive the advisory for the country as a whole, which it definitely is not.
There are, of course, caveats about travel in Mexico, just as there are for visits to any foreign city or resort area, but many of these fall under the realm of common sense: Don't stray from the well-known tourist areas, stay alert and don't drink too much, avoid walking alone at night, only take public transportation or drive on the highways during daylight, don't deck yourself out in expensive jewelry and avoid large crowds and demonstrations. Before traveling to Mexico, make sure your cell phone works on GSM or 3G international networks, and memorize the Mexican version of our 911, which is 066.
The Most Dangerous Places In Mexico
Despite the increase in drug-related violence, a closer look at Mexico shows that the country is actually safer than what headlines suggest. As a whole, Mexico's murder rate is surprisingly low: 12 homicides for every 100,000 inhabitants. When compared to Washington, D.C.'s 31 people per 100,000 inhabitants and New Orleans 64, the numbers aren't cause for concern if you know where to avoid.
Ciudad Juarez
The "Deadliest City in the World" has seen 130 murders per 100,000 inhabitants. More than 2,600 people were killed in Ciudad Juarez in 2009.
Gomez Palacio, Durango, and Torreon
Each of these cities has seen sharp increases in violence. In late 2009 and early 2010, four visiting U.S. citizens were murdered in Gomez Palacio.
Chihuahua, Sinaloa and Northern Baja California
These areas have seen spikes in the number of robberies, homicides, petty thefts, and carjackings.
Tijuana and Nogales
Along with Ciudad Juarez, these cities have experienced public shootouts during daylight hours in shopping centers and other public venues.
Nuevo Laredo and Matamoros
Criminals have followed and harassed U.S. citizens traveling in their vehicles in these areas and in other border cities such as Tijuana.
Monterrey & Highway Travel
Travelers on highways from Monterrey and other parts of Mexico to the U.S. have been targeted for robbery and violence.
"The news media prefer to report horrible events rather than address the reality; Mexico is, in general, a very safe country -- with the notable and news-making exception of Juarez and other border towns -- and has far less violent crime than any large U.S. city," says Barbara Erickson, one of more than a million Americans who lives safely in Mexico.
According to Erickson, a San Miguel de Allende resident, "one would have a greater chance of being hit by lightning than being shot or kidnapped by a drug load's gang."
Another plus to our relations with those living south of the border is American companies successfully conduct business in Mexico. "I have clients traveling to Mexico regularly to film and to do photo productions and we have never had any problems," says Clare Beresford of World Locations in Hollywood, a company that scouts locations for movies, commercials and photo shoots." World Locations has sent people to Mexico City, Merida, Zihuatenejo, Manzanillo, Puerto Vallarta and Careyes, among many destinations.
Tourism from North America is a significant part of Mexico's economy. In 2008, foreign visitors (22.6 million of them, 80 percent of whom were from the U.S.) spent $13.3 billion in Mexico, making up 13.8 percent of the country's GDP.
But in 2009, Mexican tourism was hammered by the U.S. recession and the swine flu epidemic. Cruise ships briefly canceled trips to the country, and many restaurants and archaeological sites were briefly closed. The revenue from foreign tourism dropped 15 percent to 11.3 billion. This year, tourism is expected to rebound. But 2010 could be another bad year if fear keeps U.S. citizens away.
We've drawn up a list of Mexico's most popular tourist destinations and rated them one to five, one being the highest cause for concern, and five being the safest.
BORDER CITIES
Fear Factor: 1
The State Department listed several cities as not advisable to visit, including Ciudad Juarez, Tijuana, Nogales, Nuevo Laredo, Monterrey and Matamoros. The worst of the bunch of Ciudad Juarez, across the border from El Paso, Texas. The city has been the site of some of the most gruesome murders in an already shocking drug war. In January, 15 teenagers at a party were slain, and in March, three people with connections to the U.S. consulate were murdered in two separate incidents while riding in cars with their children, two of whom were wounded. Over the past ten years, the city has uncovered the bodies of over 400 women whose bodies were dumped in ditches or vacant lots, victims of sexual homicides. Until things get under control, this is not the time to venture over the border for some shopping or pozole.
CANCUN, THE RIVIERA MAYA AND COZUMEL
Fear Factor: 5
Cancun is one of Mexico's most popular beach resorts, which average around four million American visitors per year. Last year a retired Mexican general investigating corruption was assassinated by drug traffickers, but that's been an isolated event. Over-consumption of alcohol by younger tourists is a problem, and there have been rapes. But on the whole, Cancun is extremely safe. "The leading cause of foreign tourist deaths in Cancun is heart attacks, car accidents and accidental drowning," says Canadian writer Marlo-Renay Heresco, a Cancun resident who blogs about her life in Mexico on her website, atravelartist.com. "The key to success when traveling or living abroad is exercising common sense." The Riviera Maya (the Yucatan coast stretching south from Cancun) has little to fear beyond sunburn. The island of Cozumel off the Riviera Maya is a popular, very safe destination for cruise ships, where problems are the occasional purse-snatching or picked pocket.
MERIDA AND THE MAYAN RUINS IN YUCATAN
Fear Factor: 5
Although many people visit Chichen Itza on day-trips from Cancun, Merida is the gateway to comprehensive exploration of Uxmal and other significant Mayan ruins scattered across the state of Yucatan. Merida is a quiet, charming city, and the main ruins have well-organized tours and visitor's centers, as well as guards. In addition to hotels in Merida, the Yucatan has a number of colonial-era haciendas that have been converted into small resorts. Mayan villagers are welcoming. Here again, it's not a good idea to drive on unlighted roads at night, but central Merida's busy colonial-era streets are safe to stroll at night. "Mexico is a large country... deciding not to travel "to Mexico" because of violence is like saying you won't go to New York because of a murder in Denver," says Merida resident Ellen Fields. " Yes, there are places in Mexico where violence is on the rise. Where I live, Merida on the Yucatan Peninsula, and the nearby Mayan Riviera, has not seen this violence and is a very safe place to visit or to live."
MEXICO CITY
Fear Factor: 4.75
No one thinks twice about visiting our nation's capital, and the same should go for Mexico's capital. In 2008, Mexico City had a homicide rate of nine for every 100,000 people, while Washington D.C. had a rate of more than 30 per 100,000 -- over three times higher. Visitors to Mexico City should exercise the same precautions taken in any of the world's big cities; sticking to busy, central areas and remaining aware of one's surroundings. It's very important to take only radio-issued taxis or taxis from official stands, never the "libre" (independent) or Volkswagen cabs, as there have been many instances of robbery and kidnapping. Don't walk at night except short distances on busy streets. This is an exciting city full of museums, art galleries and fabulous restaurants, not to be missed. Most people include a visit nearby to the majestic ruins of Teotihuacan, which are well patrolled and perfectly safe, with a visitor's center and organized guides.
SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE AND THE COLONIAL CITIES
Fear Factor: 5
"I feel as safe here as anywhere I have ever lived and so do my neighbors and friends," says Barbara Erickson, who's lived in San Miguel de Allende a number of years. "San Miguel is as lovely as ever." This arty town is popular with Americans, who stroll its lovely colonial streets, dine out and browse the art galleries without worries. This is true of all of Mexico's stunning colonial cities. In some cases the countryside around them may be iffy (the state of Michoacan, for instance, has had troubles, but its capital, Morelia, is lovely and safe, as is Patzcuaro). Guanajuato, Queretaro, Zacatecas and the rest of the colonial cities are well worth visiting.
GUADALAJARA
Fear Factor: 4.75
Mexico's sophisticated second city is both a colonial gem and a major center for shopping that's regularly combed over by interior decorators from the southwestern U.S. There's also a lively art scene to enjoy, with art galleries and museums. But Guadalajara is a very large city, with the attendant need for caution, and it's best to stick to the central city tourist areas and leafy upscale neighborhoods like the Zona Rosa. A popular side-trip is past fields of blue agave to the town of Tequila, where tequila distilleries can be visited and the wares sampled from such famous brands as Cuervo and Herradura. This is completely safe, but again, don't over-indulge.
OAXACA
Fear Factor: 5
Oaxaca city was the site of a teachers' strike in 2006 that led to some violence and, unfortunately, the shooting of an American freelance journalist. As a result, the city has been tarred as unsafe, although nothing could be farther than the truth. The colonial city center, the nearby ruins at Monte Alban and the surrounding crafts towns like Teotitlan del Valle are well-traveled and very safe. "There is a lot of hysteria in the US about everything from drugs to flu in Mexico, but after five years in Oaxaca with my husband and daughter, I have to say that these issues have not even remotely affected us," said an American expat. Oaxaca has a thriving art scene and one of Mexico's most highly-regarded cuisines. The Oaxaca coast, including beautiful, well-developed Huatulco and the little surfing mecca of Puerto Escondido is very safe, although swimming along the coast must be done with caution (check with your hotel), as some areas have rip-tides.
IXTAPA/ZIHUATENEJO
Fear Factor: 5
Ixtapa is a resort area developed by the Mexican government, and its big resorts are extremely safe. Neighbor Zihuatenejo is a former fishing village that reeks charm and has some upscale hotels and lovely outdoor restaurants. Many Americans live in "Zi" including famous American fashion designer Betsey Johnson. This is another spot where your biggest problem will be sunburn.
PUERTO VALLARTA
Fear Factor: 5
The lovely cobble-stoned hillside fishing village that was "discovered" after the filming of Night of the Iguana has spread at a dizzying rate, so that there are many Vallartas, including the original (still charming) town, the Marina and Nuevo Vallarta. Puerto Vallarta is filled with art galleries, which regularly throw open houses, gourmet restaurants and hotels in every price range. There are also the kinds of bars which encourage patrons to over-indulge, and that's never a good idea. Downtown Puerto Vallarta is safe to stroll, but never late at night after the festivities are over, and it's not a good idea to venture too far off the beaten track. Thousands of Americans live here, and love it. The Costalegre coast, stretching from Puerto Vallarta to Manzanillo in the south, is very safe, as is the newly-named Costa Nayarit (a series of bucolic fishing villages) to the north.
ACAPULCO
Fear Factor: 4.5
Acapulco in recent years has undergone a major revival. Once Mexico's most fashionable resort, it had gone a bit seedy, but now has regained much of its glamour. Unfortunately, it has recently been touched by drug-related violence, and although most has been on the edges or outside of town, some bodies have been found on a street lined with nightclubs, including the bodies of police officers. It's especially important these days to be alert to your surroundings here, and stay away from nightclubs known to attract the narcotraficantes. That said, the possibilities of being caught in a drug shoot-out are on the extreme end of slim to none.
LOS CABOS
Fear Factor: 5
Cabo San Lucas, San Jose del Cabo and the "Corridor" of resorts that stretch between them are like a backyard for residents of the southwestern U.S. Thousands of Americans live here on the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula (light years away from Tijuana's troubles) and the artsy little town of Todos Santos 45 minutes up the Pacific coast from Cabo San Lucas. Some visitors complain it's too American in Cabo. The region is very safe, with good highways and busy downtowns. Visitors should stay out of unlighted side streets and stick to the well-traveled tourists areas, where shopping, art galleries and a big choice of restaurants make straying unnecessary. Swimmers must exercise extreme caution -- the waters are treacherous and it's important to know where it's safe to swim and where not to even wade very far.
Chicago Tribune - Monday March 22, 2010
How safe is travel in Mexico? Depends on your destination
Mon 22 Mar 2010
By Carol PucciPucci
McClatchy-Tribune News Service
How safe is travel in Mexico?
It all depends on where you're going.
As a new travel warning by the U.S. State Department (http://travel.state.gov) points out, the areas of concern are not the beach resorts or historical cities most Americans visit, but rather the border towns, specifically Tijuana, Nogales, Ciudad Juarez, Nuevo Laredo, Monterrey and Matamoros.
Too often in the past, these types of government alerts have taken a broad-brush approach, simply advising against travel to a country as a whole. What's different about this warning, issued March 14 following the shooting in Ciudad Juarez of three people with ties to the American consulate, is its level of detail, and the way it rightly targets only towns where drug-related violence has been rampant.
This could have something to do with the fact that Mexico's tourism economy is fragile, and the U.S. government doesn't want to do anything that might damage it, but let's hope it also has something to do with a new, more responsible approach to travel warnings in general.
As the State Department points out, millions of U.S. citizens safely visit Mexico each year, and this isn't likely to change. Nearly a million Americans live in various parts of the country, enjoying the benefits of an inexpensive retirement and low-cost medical care.
I just returned from seven days in Mazatlan and Sayulita, a surfing and beach town near Puerto Vallarta popular with many from Seattle and Portland. I experienced nothing out of the ordinary, except perhaps, fewer tourists than usual. Restaurants were lively and filled with Americans and Canadians who were there seemed to be enjoying their vacations with no hassles or problems.
The Mexican people, of course, are concerned about what's happening in their country. They're worried that the violence could spread, and worried about its effects on their own sense of well-being, tourism and the general economy. It was interesting to observe a military "show of force," one evening in Sayulita when a truck with armed soldiers did a once-around the town square while bystanders ate ice cream and typed on laptops.
The bottom line: If you're planning a vacation soon to Mexico, by all means go, but heed the State Department's advice and use common-sense precautions such as visiting only legitimate business and tourist areas during daylight hours, and avoiding areas where drug dealing might occur.
The State Department's Web site contains some good information aimed at spring-break vacation crowds, but it's useful for anyone planning a trip, especially its summaries of the security situation in some popular destinations.
Here's some of what appears on the Web site:
—Acapulco: Drug-related violence has been increasing in Acapulco. Although this violence is not targeted at foreign residents or tourists, U.S. citizens in these areas should be vigilant about their personal safety.
Avoid swimming outside the bay area. Several American citizens have died while swimming in rough surf at the RevolcaderoBeach near Acapulco.
—Cabo San Lucas: Beaches on the Pacific side of the Baja CaliforniaPeninsula at Cabo San Lucas are dangerous due to riptides and rogue waves; hazardous beaches in this area are clearly marked in English and Spanish.
—Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Cozumel: Cancun is a fairly large city, approaching 500,000 inhabitants, with increasing reports of crime. Crimes against the person, such as rape, commonly but not exclusively occur at night or in the early morning hours, and often involve alcohol and the nightclub environment. Therefore, it is important to travel in pairs or groups, be aware of surroundings, and take general precautions.
—Matamoros/South Padre Island: The Mexican border cities of Matamoros and Nuevo Progresso are located 30 to 45 minutes south of the major spring-break destination of South Padre Island, Texas.
Travelers to the Mexican border should be especially aware of safety and security concerns due to increased violence in recent years between rival drug-trafficking gangs competing for control of narcotics smuggling routes. While it is unlikely that American visitors would get caught up in this violence, travelers should exercise common-sense precautions such as visiting only the well-traveled business and tourism areas of border towns during daylight and early-evening hours.
—Mazatlan: While the beach town of Mazatlan is a relatively safe place to visit, travelers should use common sense and exercise normal precautions when visiting an unfamiliar location. Avoid walking the streets alone after dark, when petty crimes are much more common. Beaches can have very strong undertows and rogue waves. Swimmers should obey warning signs placed along the beaches which indicate dangerous ocean conditions.
—Nogales/Sonora: Puerto Penasco, aka "Rocky Point," is located in northern Sonora, 60 miles from the U.S. border, and is accessible by car. The majority of accidents that occur at this spring-break destination are caused by individuals driving under the influence of alcohol. Travelers should exercise particular caution on unpaved roads, especially in beach areas.
—Tijuana: Tijuana has one of the busiest land border crossings in the world. The beach towns of Rosarito and Ensenada also attract a large number of tourists. Drinking alcoholic beverages excessively on a public street is prohibited.
Tijuana boasts a large number of pharmacies; to buy any controlled medication (e.g. Valium, Vicodin, Placidyl, Morphine, Demorol, and Ativan, etc.), a prescription from a Mexican federally registered physician is required.
Possession of controlled medications without a Mexican doctor's prescription is a serious crime and can lead to arrest. The prescription must have a seal and serial number. Under no other circumstances should an individual purchase prescription medicines.
--Distributed by McClatchy-Tribune Information Services.
Star-Telegram - Sunday March 21,2010
Away from the U.S. border, Mexico is peaceful, beautiful
My heart sank last weekend when I turned on the radio after a beautiful weekend in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.
"My family doesn't go to Mexico anymore," a morning-show host said just as I was unpacking a necktie from the Fabrica la Aurora design market.
"Absolutely not," his sidekick chimed in. "No Mexico for us!"
The hosts agreed that Mexico is just too dangerous and violent and that no sane person would go there.
I guess that leaves me.
True, last weekend was one of the most horrible in memory for violence in Ciudad Juarez and along the border. The 50 people killed included two Americans in Juarez tied to the U.S. Consulate. One was pregnant.
But 800 miles south in San Miguel, it was a peaceful weekend. Mariachis sang Las Mananitas at midnight in the garden outside the cathedral. More than 200 wedding guests enjoyed a ceremony and fireworks show where the only threat came from a few falling embers.
Look, no matter what you hear, the U.S. has not warned citizens to stay out of Mexico.
The State Department warning says to stay out of Chihuahua, Coahuila and Durango -- particularly Juarez.
At any given time, about 500,000 Americans are visiting Mexico. According to the State Department, 79 Americans were killed there last year, 23 of them in Juarez.
Mathematically, that means the rest of Mexico is safer than Dallas or Houston. It's four times safer than New Orleans.
Just stay away from the border.
Juan Hernandez, the Fort Worth Republican who served in former Mexican President Vicente Fox's Cabinet and later in Arizona Sen. John McCain's presidential campaign, said Friday that Mexico is heartbroken over the killings.
"All over the country, newspapers are saying this has brought a level of outrage that had not existed before," Hernandez said by phone from Washington, D.C., where he will speak today at the March for America immigration protest.
He said it's "not fair" to blame crime on Mexico: "These are international organizations."
President "Felipe Calderon is risking his own life fighting the drug dealers," he said. "Mexico is in a great battle to stop this from spilling over into the United States."
He and his family also love San Miguel.
But his brother Francisco Hernandez, a Fort Worth lawyer, said friends are now warned not to visit neighboring San Luis Potosi.
"Nothing about this is new," Francisco Hernandez said.
"The criminal element is not new. The drug dealing and the violence are not new. All that's new is the level of attention."
Juan Hernandez said he's glad that Gov. Rick Perry enacted a border safety plan last week, sending helicopters and improving communication between county sheriffs and state law officers.
"Gov. Perry is a great friend to Mexico," Juan Hernandez said.
"Mexico needs friends in this war."
That, too, is nothing new.
Bud Kennedy's column appears Sundays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
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Twitter @budkennedy
New York Times - December 27, 2009
36 Hours in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
By ROCKY CASALE
Published: December 27, 2009
With its breezy blue skies and baroque architecture, San Miguel de Allende has been a tropical haven for expatriates and retirees since the 1930s. The recent housing boom drew an even larger flock of snowbirds (mostly American) to this city in central Mexico, and with it came a new perch for post-hippie boutiques, vegan organic cafes and uneven art galleries. Old-timers started grousing about its Disneyfication. Luckily, the colonial town — which dates back to the 16th century and still bears traces of Spanish, Creole and Native American cultures — was designated a UnescoWorld Heritage site in 2008. While San Miguel doesn’t need any more attention, the designation helps ensure that the town’s candy-colored haciendas, romantic cobblestone lanes and rose-tinted turrets are around to survive another housing bubble.
Friday
4 p.m. 1)MOSS AND MARIACHI
Get a sense of San Miguel’s understated colonial grandeur with a stroll along the palm-lined paths of Parque Juárez, a sun-dappled garden with pocked stone pillars and archways and fountains tarnished with mildew or overrun with moss. Hushed streets and lush trees occupy this part of town — as well as artists and writers, like Michael Cristofer, the playwright and filmmaker, who owns a Spanish colonial home insulated by beautiful gardens. If you return to the park after dark, there’s a good chance you’ll catch an impromptu concert of one-man banjo bands and mariachi singers.
7 p.m. 2)DINE AND DANCE
The city’s food scene is less riveting than one would expect from a melting pot of Mexican and expat cultures, but one exception is Tio Lucas Restaurant & Bar (Calle Mesones 103; 52-415-152-4996). The steakhouse extends to a crowded patio for outside dining under strings of warmly lighted star-shaped lanterns. Toothsome steaks, strong margaritas and warmed beet root and goat cheese salads mixed tableside by the chef are what attract return customers. Dinner for two with drinks is about 600 pesos, or about $48 at 12.45 pesos to the dollar. The restaurant is decorated with Mexican crafts and stenciled cutouts of dancing skeletons. Tio Lucas doubles as a jazz joint, with nightly performances at 9 p.m.
10 p.m. 3)MITTE IN MEXICO
Night life in San Miguel tends to fall along two lines: you either scream over piercing club tracks or you don’t. On Calle Umaran, girls in flouncy skirts stand outside seedy sports bars teasing tousled-haired boys. Steps away, Mexican women sit in the bosky El Jardín with grandchildren on their laps listening to mariachi bands or watching fireworks bloom overhead. The mellow alternative nearby is Berlin Bar and Cafe (Calle Umaran 19; 52-415-154-9432). Run by expatriates from Germany, this chill and trendy bar draws a silver fox set who stop by for its strong drinks and artsy crowd. Couples chat and listen to jazz in candlelit nooks near a bar decorated with huge paintings of artists and intellectuals from Weimar Berlin and other periods in Germany’s history.
Saturday
9 a.m. 4)DESAYUNO TO GO
People stand in line for coffee at La Ventana Café Orgánico de Chiapas (Diez de Sollano y Dávalos 11; 52-415 154-7728) for a good reason. It’s not just because the organic coffee is dark and rich and the pastries fresh and flaky, but because you can’t actually go inside: La Ventana is a takeout window on the side of a faded yellow hacienda. Order an espresso and a warm croissant for 59 pesos. Take your breakfast two blocks down the road to El Jardín and sit on a bench beneath the lollypop-shaped laurel trees, where you’ll have a moment without the crowds to appreciate streaks of early-morning sunlight on La Parroquia church.
11:30 a.m. 5)FEW GOOD FINDS
Souvenir shops selling Day of the Dead skeleton dolls are everywhere, which means shopping here can quickly become dull. For quirkier finds, walk east away from the center of town to Mixta (Calle Pila Seca 16A, Centro; 52-415-152-7343), a new shop that sells fine silver bangles and earrings, homemade cards and aprons stitched by local women. Farther north is Fábrica La Aurora (Calzada de la Aurora, Colonia Aurora; 52-415-152-1012; www.fabricalaaurora.com), a former turn-of-the-century textile mill turned into a design and art center. One highlight is Galería Manuel Chacon, which carries contemporary art.
1:30 p.m. 6)BURRITOVILLE
When Rodrigo Pak Sautto wasn’t in upstate New York selling burritos out of an aluminum camper outside Bard College, he was building his business in San Miguel making yogurt smoothies and granola at his now popular Café Media Naranja (Calle Hidalgo 83). Housed in a tiny shoebox of a cafe, it attracts crunchy Anglos and earthy vegans who stop in for organic coffees and a quick lunch of vegetarian burritos and curried lentil soup (37 to 90 pesos) and to surf its free Wi-Fi.
4 p.m. 7)CRAFTY CURIOSITIES
Down a narrow alley behind the city’s main fruit and vegetable market is the Mercado de Artesanias (between Calle Colegio and Calle Loreto), a vibrant mash of artists’ stalls where you’ll find everything from flossy fringed piñatas and punched-tin lanterns dangling overhead to baskets of cobalt blue glass beads and silver necklaces. Its offerings are more authentic than the trinkets and curios sold in the historic district, and possibly half the price.
8 p.m. 8)WORLD SPICES
Follow the well-heeled expats to the flagstone courtyard at The Restaurant (Sollano 16, Centro; 52-415-154-7862; www.therestaurantsanmiguel.com), an elegant and candlelit restaurant that serves international comfort dishes using organic ingredients from local ranchers, growers and dairy farmers. Donnie Masterton, the chef, changes the menu frequently. Recent dishes included a miso-marinated and broiled Pacific salmon with soy, ginger green beans, and grilled pork chops with white bean and cherry tomato ragout (each 200 pesos).
10:30 p.m. 9)LUCKY GAUCHOS
For a festive nightcap, make your way to Limrick (Calle Umaran 2), a busy bar in a soaring hacienda that takes its design cue from an Irish pub. Mexicans and Americans of every ilk, from the landed elite to the louche locals, chat in cozy booths, throw darts and watch soccer on the television. If the night still feels young, head to La Cucaracha (Calle Zacateros 22; 52-415-152-0196), an after-hours bar decorated with faded pinup posters and yellowing maps of the area. The crowd might include D-list actors in hiding and old gauchos parked permanently at the bar.
Sunday
10 a.m. 10)HOT BATH
Near the outskirts of San Miguel, underground hot springs percolate to the surface and form pools. A five-minute cab ride out of town takes you to La Gruta (six miles outside San Miguel), a slightly shabby water park and picnic spot favored by locals. Two small mineral hot springs and a grotto are bordered by stone retaining walls, palm trees, wildflowers and sprays of bougainvillea.
1 p.m. 11)CACTOPHILE’S PARADISE
Bird-watchers, outdoorsmen and city slickers will all appreciate the brambly valleys of El Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden (El Charco del Ingenio; 52-415-154-8838; www.elcharco.org.mx), a 167-acre ecological reserve spanning cactus-lined canyons and spring-fed pools. A 40-peso fee gives you access to easy hiking trails festooned with giant agaves and nopal cactus where egrets and swallows roost and peck at spiny fruits. The greenhouse, which resembles a small airplane hangar, shelters hundreds of rare and endangered plants. It’s the kind of place locals come to take in the natural surrounding beauty, perhaps when things feel a little too Disney.
THE BASICS
The nearest commercial airports are Querétaro (about 45 miles away) and León-Guanajuato (about 70 miles). A recent Web search found a Continental Airlines flight from Newark to Querétaro, with a stopover in Houston, starting at about $550 for travel next month. The sometimes cheaper alternative is to fly into Mexico City, which offers more flights, and make the four-hour drive.
This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:
Correction: January 10, 2010
The 36 Hours column on Dec. 27, about San Miguel de Allende, misspelled the surname of a playwright and filmmaker and referred incorrectly to his house near Parque Juárez. He is Michael Cristofer, not Cristopher, and he owns the house in that neighborhood, he does not rent it.
Mexico is in a unique position to reap many of the benefits of the decline of the US economy. In order to not violate NAFTA and other agreements the U.S.A. cannot use direct protectionism, so it is content to allow the media to play this protectionist role.
The U.S. media – over the last year – has portrayed Mexico as being on the brink of economic collapse and civil war. The Mexican people are either beheaded, kidnapped, poor, corrupt, or narco-traffickers. The American news media was particularly aggressive in the weeks leading up to spring break. The main reason for this is money. During that two-week period, over 120,000 young American citizens poured into Mexico and left behind hundreds of millions of dollars.
Let’s look at the reality of the massive drug and corruption problem, kidnappings, murders and money. The U.S. Secretary of State Clinton was clear in her honest assessment of the problem. “Our insatiable demand for illegal drugs fuels the drug trade. Our inability to prevent the weapons from being illegally smuggled across the border to arm these criminals causes the deaths of police officers, soldiers and civilians,” Clinton said. The other large illegal business that is smuggled into the U.S.A. that no one likes to talk about is Human Traffic for prostitution. This “business” is globally now competing with drugs in terms of profits. It is critical to understand, however that the horrific violence in Mexico is over 95% confined to the three transshipping cities for these two businesses, Tijuana, Nogales, and Juarez.
The Mexican government is so serious about fighting this, that they have committed over 30,000 soldiers to these borders towns. There was a thoughtful article written by a professor at the University of Juarez. He was reminded of the Prohibition years in the U.S.A. and compared Juarez to Chicago when Al Capone was conducting his reign of terror capped off with The Saint Valentine’s Day Massacre. During these years, just like Juarez today, 99% of the citizens went about their daily lives and attended classes, went to the movies, restaurants, and parks.
Is there corruption in Mexico? YES !!! Is there an equal amount of corruption related to this business in the U.S.A.? YES !!!. When you have a pair of illegal businesses that generate over $300,000,000,000 in sales you will find massive corruption. Make no mistake about the Mexican Drug Cartel; these “businessmen” are 100 times more sophisticated than the bumbling bootleggers during Prohibition. They form profitable alliances all over the U.S.A. They do cost benefit analysis of their business much better than the US automobile industry. They have found over the years that the cost of bribing U.S. and Mexican Border Guards and the transportation costs of moving marijuana from Sinaloa to California have cut significantly into profits. That is why over the past 5-7 years they have been growing marijuana in State and Federal Parks and BLM land all across America. From a business standpoint, this is a tremendous cost savings on several levels. Let’s look at California as an example as one of the largest consumers. When you have $14.2 billion of Marijuana grown and consumed in one state, there is savings on transportation, less loss of product due to confiscation and an overall reduction cost of bribery with law enforcement and parks service people. Another great savings is the benefit to their employees. The penalties in Mexico for growing range from 5-15 years. The penalties in California, on average are 18 months, and out in 8 months. The same economic principles are now being applied to the methamphetamine factories.
FOX News continues to scare people with its focus on kidnapping. There are kidnappings in Mexico. The concentration of kidnappings has been in Mexico City, among the very rich and the three aforementioned border Cities. With the exception of Mexico City, the number one city for kidnappings among NAFTA countries is Phoenix, Arizona with over 359 in 2008. The Phoenix Police estimate that twice that number of kidnappings goes unreported, because like Mexico 99% of these crimes were directly related to drug and human traffic. Phoenix, unfortunately, is geographically profitable transshipping location. Mexicans, just like 99% of U.S. Citizens during prohibition, go about their daily lives all over the country. They get up, go to school or work and live their lives untouched by the border town violence.
These same protectionist news sources have misled the public as to the real danger from the swine flu in Mexico and temporary devastated the tourism business. As of May 27 2009 there have been 87 deaths in Mexico from the swine flu. During those same five months there have been 36 murdered school children in Chicago. By their logic, if 87 deaths from the swine flu in Mexico warrants canceling flights and cruise ships to Mexico, then close all roads and highways in the USA because of record 43,359 automobile related deaths in the USA in 2008.
What is just getting underway is what many are calling the “Largest southern migration to Mexico of people and real estate assets since the Civil War” A significant percentage of the Baby Boomers have been doing the research and are making the life changing decision to move out of the U.S.A. The number one retirement destination in the world is Mexico. There are already over 2,000,000 US and Canadian property owners in Mexico. The most conservative number of American and Canadian Baby Boomers who are on their way to owning property in Mexico for full or part time living in the next 15 years is over 6,000,000. Do the math on 6,000,000 people buying a $300,000 house or condo and you will understand why the U.S. Government is trying to tax this massive shift of money to Mexico through H.R. 3056. The U.S. government calls this “The Tax Collection Responsibility Act of 2007”. Those who will have to pay it are calling this the EXIT TAX.
Mexico: A better economic choice than China
Another large exodus from the U.S.A is high paying skilled jobs. The job shift in automobile sector, both car and parts manufacturing, is already known by most investors. In the last few months as John Deere and Caterpillar have been laying off thousands of workers in the U.S.A., and hiring equal numbers in Mexico. The most recent industry that is making the shift is the aerospace manufacturers. In the city of Zacatecas there is currently a $210 million aerospace facility being built. With the 11 U.S. companies moving there, it is estimated to provide over 200,000 new high paying jobs in the coming years. One of the main factors for the shift in job south to Mexico instead of China is realistic analysis of total production, labor and delivery costs. While the labor costs in China are 40% less on average, the overall transportation costs and inherent risks of a long distance supply chain, and quality control issues, gives Mexico a distinct financial advantage.
Mexico’s real economic future
Mexico has avoided completely the subprime problem that has devastated the U.S. banking industry. The Mexican banks are healthy and profitable. Mexico has a growing and very healthy middle and upper middle class. The very recent introduction of residential financing has Mexico in a unique position of having over 90% of current homeowners owning their house outright. U.S. banks are competing for the Mexican, Canadian and American cross border loan business. It is and will continue to be a very safe and very profitable business. These same banks that were loaning in a reckless manner have learned their lesson and are loaning here the old fashioned way. They require a minimum of a 680 credit score, 30% down payment, and verifiable income that can support the loan. In most areas of Mexico where Baby Boomers are moving to, with the exception of Puerto Penasco (which did not have a national and international base of buyers), there is no real estate bubble. The higher end markets ($2-20 million) in many of these destinations are going through a modest correction. The Baby Boomers market here is between $200,000 and $600,000. With the continuing demand inside the Bay of Banderas, that price point, in the coming years, will disappear. This is the reason the Mexican government is spending billions of dollars on more infrastructure north along the coast all the way up to Mazatlan.
The other major area where America has become overpriced is in the field of health care. This massive shift of revenues is estimated to add 5-7% to Mexico’s GDP. The name for this “business” is Medical Tourism. The two biggest competitors for Mexico were Thailand and India. Thailand and India’s biggest drawback is geography. Also recent events, Thailand’s inability to keep a government in place and the recent terrorist attack in Mumbai, have helped Mexico capture close to half of this growth industry. In Mexico today there are over 56 world class hospitals being built to keep up with this business.
Mexico is currently sitting on a cash surplus and an almost balanced budget. Most Americans have never heard of Carlos Slim until he loaned the New York Times $250 million. After that it became clear to many investors around the world what Mexicans already knew: that Mexico had been able to avoid the worst of the U.S. economic devastation. Mexico’s resilience is to be admired. When the U.S. Federal Reserve granted a $30 billion loan to each of the following countries Mexico, Singapore, South Korea, and Brazil, Mexico reinvested the money in Treasury bonds in an account in New York City.
The following is a quote from Rosalind Wilson, President of the Canadian Chamber of Commerce on March 19, 2009. “The strength of the Mexican economic system makes the country a favorite destination for Canadian investment”.
The answer is simple and old fashioned: SUPPLY AND DEMAND.
I would offer a word of caution for investors in Mexico. Do not be seduced by the endless natural beauty that is everywhere, both inland in colonial towns and along thousands of miles of beach. Apply conservative medium and long term investment strategies without emotion. The demand for full and part time living by American and Canadian Baby Boomers is evident throughout the country. The top two choice locations are ocean front, and ocean view. The third overall choice, which is less expensive, is inland in one of the many beautiful colonial towns or small cities.
Mexico, with the world’s 13th largest GDP, is no longer a “Third World Country”, but rather a fast growing, economically secure state, as the most recent five-year history of its financial markets when compared to the U.S.A.’s financial markets suggests.
DOW JONES AVERAGES
MAY 2004
10,200
MAY 2009
8,200
20% LOSS IN 5 YEARS
MEXICAN BOLSA
MAY 2004
10,000
MAY 2009
23,000
130% GAIN IN 5 YEARS
I am glad to share all of my research with investors.
Linda Ellerbee (born August 15, 1944) is an Americanjournalist who is most known for several jobs at NBC News, including Washington (DC) correspondent, host of the Nickelodeon network's Nick News, and reporter and co-anchor of NBC News Overnight, which was recognized by the jurors of the duPont Columbia Awards as "possibly the best written and most intelligent news program ever."[1]
One Journalist's View
By Linda Ellerbee
Sometimes I've been called a maverick because I don't always agree with my colleagues, but then, only dead fish swim with the stream all the time. The stream here is Mexico.You would have to be living on another planet to avoid hearing how dangerous Mexico has become, and, yes, it's true drug wars have escalated violence in Mexico , causing collateral damage, a phrase I hate. Collateral damage is a cheap way of saying that innocent people, some of them tourists, have been robbed, hurt or killed.
But that's not the whole story. Neither is this. This is my story.
I'm a journalist who lives in New York City , but has spent considerable time in Mexico , specifically Puerto Vallarta , for the last four years. I'm in Vallarta now. And despite what I'm getting from the U.S. media, the 24-hour news networks in particular, I feel as safe here as I do at home in New York , possibly safer. I walk the streets of my Vallarta neighborhood alone day or night. And I don't live in a gated community, or any other All-Gringo neighborhood. I live in Mexico .. Among Mexicans. I go where I want (which does not happen to include bars where prostitution and drugs are the basic products), and take no more precautions than I would at home in New York ; which is to say I don't wave money around, I don't act the Ugly American, I do keep my eyes open, I'm aware of my surroundings, and I try not to behave like a fool.
I've not always been successful at that last one. One evening a friend left the house I was renting in Vallarta at that time, and, unbeknownst to me, did not slam the automatically-locking door on her way out. Sure enough, less than an hour later a stranger did come into my house. A burglar? Robber? Kidnapper? Killer? Drug lord?
No, it was a local police officer, the "beat cop" for our neighborhood, who, on seeing my unlatched door, entered to make sure
everything (including me) was okay. He insisted on walking with me around the house, opening closets, looking behind doors and, yes, even under beds, to be certain no one else had wandered in, and that nothing was missing. He was polite, smart and kind, but before he left, he lectured me on having not checked to see that my friend had locked the door behind her. In other words, he told me to use my common sense. Do bad things happen here? Of course they do. Bad things happen everywhere, but the murder rate here is much lower than, say, New Orleans , and if there are bars on many of the ground floor windows of houses here, well, the same is true where I live, in Greenwich Village, which is considered a swell neighborhood - house prices start at about $4 million (including the bars on the ground floor windows). There are good reasons thousands of people from the United States are moving to Mexico every month, and it's not just the lower cost of living, a hefty tax break and less snow to shovel.. Mexico is a beautiful country, a special place. The climate varies, but is plentifully mild, the culture is ancient and revered, the young are loved unconditionally, the old are respected, and I have yet to hear anyone mention Britney Spears, Lindsay Lohan, or Madonna's attempt to adopt a second African child, even though, with such a late start, she cannot possibly begin to keep up with Anglelina Jolie.
And then there are the people. Generalization is risky, but- in general - Mexicans are warm, friendly, generous and welcoming. If you
smile at them, they smile back. If you greet a passing stranger on the street, they greet you back. If you try to speak even a little Spanish, they tend to treat you as though you were fluent. Or at least not an idiot. I have had taxi drivers track me down after leaving my wallet or cell phone in their cab. I have had someone run out of a store to catch me because I have overpaid by twenty cents. I have been introduced to and come to love a people who celebrate a day dedicated to the dead as a recognition of the cycles of birth and death and birth - and the 15th birthday of a girl, an important rite in becoming a woman - with the same joy.
Too much of the noise you're hearing about how dangerous it is to come to Mexico is just that - noise. But the media love noise, and too many journalists currently making it don't live here. Some have never even been here. They just like to be photographed at night, standing near a spotlighted border crossing, pointing across the line to some imaginary country from hell. It looks good on TV.
Another thing. The U.S. media tend to lump all of Mexico into one big bad bowl. Talking about drug violence in Mexico without naming a state or city where this is taking place is rather like looking at the horror of Katrina and saying, "Damn. Did you know the U.S. is under water?" or reporting on the shootings at Columbine or the bombing of the Federal building in Oklahoma City by saying that kids all over the U.S. are shooting their classmates and all the grownups are blowing up buildings. The recent rise in violence in Mexico has mostly occurred in a few states, and especially along the border. It is real, but it does not describe an entire country.
It would be nice if we could put what's going on in Mexico in perspective, geographically and emotionally. It would be nice if we could remember that, as has been noted more than once, these drug wars wouldn't be going on if people in the United States didn't want the drugs, or if other people in the United States weren't selling Mexican drug lords the guns. Most of all, it would be nice if more people in the United States actually came to this part of America (Mexico is also America , you will recall) to see for themselves what a fine place Mexico really is, and how good a vacation (or a life) here can be.
So come on down and get to know your southern neighbors. I think you'll like it here. Especially the people.
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